Saturday, September 12, 2009

Day 7: San Cristobal and Sumidero Canyon

ok so the story here starts early in the morning where we were still on the bus, the road trip wasnt smooth at all being quite bumpy didnt really help the attempts to sleep..so we didnt get much sleep...The bus stopped at Tuxtla-Guterriez a stop 2hours away from San Cristobal and steve decided that this was our stop, and was telling everyone that its here. Mr. Garmin :P..thank god we asked the driver and he told us that it wasnt out stop..pheww :P !

We arrived at the hostel which so far is the best hostel we have been yet. Clean room, hot water, working flushings, which prooved to be quite important during the day when I got diarreah :S...but before that..we went to the Sumidero Canyone..I know I have been saying this quite a lot now..but this was an unbelievable experience...it was like being one with nature - we couldnt stop taking pictures and video...as soon as we crossed the bridge the boat driver stoped us beneath a tree and he pointed out to the MONKEY...ok for those of you who dont know..i just love monkeys :)...we watched the monkey for a few minutes and moved on towards the canyon..the beauty of it is that all this is NATURAL, its not a zoo. The boat driver this time points out towards the shore where a motionless crocodile was sun bathing...yet again experiencing this in nature itself and not a zoo is so more exponentially intense...in our suprise we spotted some more crocs swimming around...the feeling is like your so powerless..all that seperates you from life and death is a simple boat...still we didnt feel afraid.

As soon as we entered the canyone we were speechless. The feeling is undescribable, you feel soo small compared to nature. The canyon was also full of birds...we saw from simple black birds to pelicans, from pelicans to condors...hundreds or even more of them ! This is when you realise the damage humans do...and a Nature Reserve is not really us humans protecting the nature, but its allowing nature the chance to reserve us these feelings...this was when I realised that this is what I want to be doing: traveller the world and visit places and experience the unexpected...the views, the animals in their own habitat - to beautiful to describe with words..both speechless..the fulcrum of the experience however was to see a waterfall coming out of the rocks..with the wind dispersing the water like thin rain, and then we went through the rush...WHAT AN EXPERIENCE..I would definately suggest this to everyone :)...believe me when I say that up till now Mexico has been totally unbelievable and has exceed by far all our expectations. All the hard work, all the vaccinations, and every single euro (or pesos) spent has been so so worth !!

..after such an experience we went back to the hostel for another typical Mexican experience: the Siesta :P ! and it was here with the bowl problems hit me :S !! Thank god I have prepared myself and got along some salt solutions.

Friday, September 11, 2009

Day 6: Petrified Waterfalls, more Ruins and some Tequilla baby :)

..Ok Ok..so first of all..who ever knew about the existance of petrified waterfalls !??...

Hierve el Agua is the name of the place..we were picked up from nearby our hostel where the day had already started in a really promising way: we stopped a beatiful women (which looks like Catherin Zeta Jones from the Zorro movie) to ask for directions...WOW...apart from her beauty she was able to speak english..a FIRST in mexico for us (apart from the guides) and on top of that..she drives a COOPER babbbby....MIAW !!!! haha..

..Pickup arrived on time and we were on our way to the mountains...quite a long way to be precise but for us...every little metre of the view was a new experience...taking píctures is literally a must. On our way to the place we passed through remote villages with cows and sheep in the middle of the street..on alomost every corner.

"The passage of time literally halted" (Steve Abela, 2009)

On the way to the place the guide was explaining to us how the local place we are visiting was literally unknown to anyone apart from a couple of locals until the waterfalls had been featured in a nationali magainze "Unkown Mexico", it was then when a local beer (Cerveza Corona) commercial was shot and since then this place has boomed in toursim. It was then when the local community (two towns) setup a bloackade on the street by a town representative to allow for passage against payment per person. It was funny to hear about this custom however it is more than understandable..it was like paying an entrance fee, however rather than the government or a private company making profit the money is used in the local towns: bueno.

Ok..ok so here it comes: We arrived at the parking spot where the guide dropped us off and told us to walk about 5 minutes towards the natural wonder (yes this is a local custom, guides point you towards a the direction rather than taking you all the way :P)..For us the walk took much more than 5 minutes as we were absorbing the scenery. We only were assigned 50 minutes at the place, but none of us really bothered to check out the time...at any time...The first wonder which hit our eyes was this kind of natural pool, where the water flowed up from a spot (forming bubbles: which the locals used to think was boiling water hence the name of the place) and of course flowed downwards...to another poool formation and then flowing down the mountain where we could not see...Only a couple of minutes had passed here when I put on my swimsuit and slowly slowy made my way into the first pool, and believe me, the water is not boiling AT ALL..it wasnt even warm...however it was neither freezing cold. Oh yes I went in and the feeling of calmness and abslosute serenity settled in...I was just there in the water (no you could not see the bottom: had no idea about any fish or so..just asked a couple of other tourist who made it out safely before us) staring at the open space of mountain scenary in front of us...incredible...in the mean time steve was taking some shots of the spot and of me (of course) however it wasnt much later that we switched roles...when I got out of the water I wasn't freezing at all, maybe the feeling from the experience was giving warmth to my body...it was then when I realised..when did I ever plan to be walking barefoot, half naked in the mountains :P...WOW...I dried up my hands and took some shots of steve swimming...even though this was an unforgettable experience which doesnt need pictures for one to remember..still have a still shot of such a moment, such an experience is always an asset. You must be wondering where the petrified falls are..well some of them where being formed just beneath us, beneath the pools we were swimming, however, there were the others on the adjacent distnace where you could see the waterfalls as in stuck on PAUSE..quite a view.

After this we couldnt not jump in the second pool of course so off we went to it and jumped in together...this time we gave the camera to an American couple (well actually they are from Mexcio but live border with the USA..still the term Americans doesnt indicate people from USA but people from the Americas which includes the Mexicans) and they gently took pictures of us, and of course we returned the favour :) This started out a nice preamble to conversations with the couple...We knew we were already late however we sincerely didn't care...how many times will we be doing this again??, so what are a couple of other minutes :P

We made our way to the van where all the (old and boring) people were waiting for us while us and the couple excused ourselves and the driver took off to the next destination: Mitla (place of the dead: since they have many catacombs).

In between the awesomeness of the waterfalls and Mitla, we of course stopped for lunch were we sat next to the Mexican couple. Here we opened up a very touching story and we heard first hand about how Mexicans, even though they might be well-off to mexican standards still look up to the USA and how they dream to go there..however in reality is that when they get there, if they manage to get there alive without being cought life is not as easy as one thinks...the need of papers etc for work and knowing that they are living a lie and that at any time they might be cought...as was in this case..the story is deeply touching.

Another ruin however in this one a temple was still standing (with also some modern help like iron beems)..the only missing part was the roof, which at that time was made of bamboo and wood so it is more than reasonable that its not there anymore. We were allowed to go inside the temple, something which only privalaged persons such as priests could do during their time and we had the chance to see original wall stukko and also the original patterns of design. What is incredible about the design is that they are made piece by piece..just like a mosaic but with shaped stones..this allowed them also to make the room look like it had virtually no corners as the design continues on the adjactent wall and creates this optical illusion. Another difference which could be seen here is that rather than the 'pyramid' being built top down (smallest layer at the bottom, top layer bigger and jutting out).

An interesting fact is that Oaxaca is placed in a valley hit by a lot of tremors (we missed one by a day or two) and it was fascinating how such a building managed to stand and resist all these earthquakes throughout all these years. The reason for this is the building method of the stone by stone - this allowed the building to be 'flexible' and resist the shakes...and yet during our times with all our knowledge and all our technologies we cannot (or rather we economise = we dont want to) build all buildings in such a manner.

It was now the time of day that we never regret: Mezcal (tequilla) tasting. We had a bunch of shots with the couple and instead of salt we were using chilli and lemon..along with the pure mezcal, or else coffee vanilla and a bunch of other tastes...the fun part is that on our way back to the hostel in the van I realised that Mr. Tequilla (Steve) was 'happy' (semi-drunk) and it was quite funny :P he was laughing at everything and of course denying the evidence..well done..about 10-half shots and hes was out :P

Once we got to the hostel we got ready for the following trip: 11 hours of bus..we were sooo looking forward to it. Made our way to the bus station by Taxi, where we recognised a couple we had seen in our Mexico City so we stayed chatting up while waiting for the bus...and on we went...

Day 5: Arrival Oaxaca, Oaxaca

Here it is already: time to leave Mexico City and go to the next place, next city..next state. The bus tickets already booked and the distance of 6 hours already waiting for us. The ride thank god is overnight departing at 12 so plan for the trip: zzZzzZZzz sleeeeep :)

When the van driver arrived to pick us up at the hostel the guy to us looked really fishy and i wont hide the fact that both of us were kinda worried about getting to destination..however as we are being thought more and more everday..looks are and can be decieving..as he was so helpful that he also showed us the direction which we should take towards our bus company :) gracias dios.

We were so surprised that to ride these (first class) busses the process was much like at a normal airport: including baggage check-in...which we did like the extra security.

Once at our stop we grabbed a taxi and off to the new hostel...blah no need to give more details about it since it was simply BAD...from the rooms to the personell...so unhelpful and unwilling to help at all. The hostel was located within some kind of complex..and we could not even sit down in the restaurant place (to wait for our pickup) because "you need to buy something"...so we decided to spend our money some place else and went round to visit this new city...

..even though it is the same country, this was a different state and believe me..it was very noticable. Not only from the building structures and the feel of being outside of the capital metropolis but also the people. The place we were staying at was kinda cool; full of teenagres, and full of life..we had time for quick breakfast and it was time for the tour of the day..Monte Alban ruins.

Even though these ruins are not as impressive as the ones of Theoutacan let me tell you: it still was as fascinating. These ruins were once built and populated by a different population and culture and this was quite visible: the Zapotecs..the tour guide we had is one of the most knowledgable persons I have ever met in my life. He has over 55 years of experience and still walking the ruins as if it was his 10th time explaining every little thing with passion and pride, he made these ruins even more intense to us. The Zapotec civilisation was already so advanced that even they knew about the stars configuration, about the solstice and they even performed cesarian births and in some cases open-brain operations (more of an euthanasia but they found proof that it sometimes worked)...

..after this it was off to a local village where the road trip was quite bumpy, felt just like being home. The village basically cuts down local trees and works them into piece of arts where the males are working on the design of the piece (from small ones to very complex single piece designs) while the women are working on the colouring..a very important skill for the community as it is one of their main ways of making money.

After this we went to another town where they specialise in Black Pottery. Here we were shown how they work it out all hand made (just like in the movie ghost just not so sexy)..but the finished product: beautiful.

Needless to point out that we couldnt resist not to buy...like in every other place, we are always buying stuff..I cannot see how we are going to manage to get back to malta with all this luggage :P

Now it was back to Oaxaca city where we went to a local bar and watched half of the Match between Mexico Vs. which was being played at the Aztec stadium (we had passed by it just the day before!) watching the game live amongst a restaurant full of locals was a great experience but we were too tired to survive the second half of the day so we decided to call it a day after a couple of beers, some tacos in a green dip and a shot of tequilla it was time for bed...Buenas noches.

P.S we were both so amazed at the beauty of the women here in Oaxaca, it was unbelievable especially if compared to the Capital where we practically didnt see any cuties at all. Hurrah !

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Day 4: Last day in Mexico City

..Oh yes it already has arrived. Today was our last day in Mexico City. We started out the day at usual local time - yes we are still not really sleeping well :(

I started the day by packing the lugagge as tidy as I could..and I hell it is already heavy, im sure my luggage is already overweight :S. Untill now I dont recall a place where we have been and didn't buy anything..everything is cheap :P. Then we had our breakfast as usual and took it easy while Steve was doing a load of dirty laundry...which we found all dirty becuase someone (99% steve) has forgot a packet of tissues..haha it was like our clothes had been dragged in snow :P

After that we had absolutely no idea what to do..we decided to just go around and explore some more...and set out towards the direction of the National Mesuem of Modern Art which we visited once there. The exhibits where of the artiste El Greco (for me it was like wtf!? but steve knew) and there were other really modern exhibits: Murales which I cannot describe in words..very nice would be not giving them enough credit. One of the artists was Diego Rivera - the husband of Fridah Kahlo...what a family.

After this it was back to being 'nomads' and kept on walking and walking on the quest to find a Fuji battery..but this seems to be inexistent over here...we gave up and went to eat at a very traditional palce: Burger King...now I know the people who work with us are saying 'how is steve surviving on a diet? what is he doing at burger king?' haha but yes..oh well but guys i have proof - steve eating a burger I even took pictures so you would believe me...

..Again we had no idea what to do after lunch and we decided to visit the place called Chapultepec..we thought that a touribus would definately take us there and after the park we could keep killing time around the city. We found what looked like a sign of the touribus (on the side of a roundabout) with no stop or anything and sat down there on the curb..waiting and waiting until finally one passed..and KEPT ON GOING..coming to think of it later it definately is not a place where to pikup and drop off toursits lol..so we went on a bus stop hoping for some luck...asking some people who btw no one knows english here we were trying to make out something in spanish..they told us that if we go to Chupalptec we could catch it there...it sounded that we hit two birds with one stone..and road the first bus which they told us which said Auditorio which of course - we have no idea were it is.on our way we were asking people where we should stop and they were telling us like 3 stops to go when steve said 'that looks like it' and grabbing the moment we just stopped there..for our luck IT WAS the park and not only did we spend a few hours there we stayed till the park closed..it is HUGE..im sure we burnt our million calorie breakfast + the burger during the day..It is so big that in it there is a zoo, a lake a castle and god know wht else..after some relax time over the lake we decided to head voer the zoo but the only place in the zoo we managed to visit was the buttefly place where we went into this tropical-heated room full of live butteflies flying around us..a nice experience :) as soon as we got out of here the guards where pressing us on the road towards as it was closure time..which road however didnt lack of nice animals..mainly birds...

Family members please dont read this part: when we got out of the park we were in this area which didnt make us feel at easy..at all..we were terriffied, and even though we were dead tired we were walking double pace towards a familiar direction untill we got to a main road which felt quite safe...thank god the first bus which passes was the one for our hostel area and we managed to get here safely...we are currently so tried that steve doesnt have energy to speak..he is literally SILENT...which is unbelievable i know :)

The experience I would like to share from today is how different a few metres, or an adjcent road, may be..from a road wich looked like an a homeless peoples place to the road exactly opposit to it with SKYSCRAPERS and policemen and architectures and full of rich-citizen life with signs saying Ciudad Sigura (safe city)...amazing how in a few paces the community can be so different...

Now I'm dead tired and starting to get hungry again..in a few minutes off to some more walking to see what food is going to satisfy our appetite of exploring...after that its towards the Tapo (east) bus station to our 6-hours (stuff your jelousy lol) bus tour towards the next destination Oaxaca :)

I hear you say..what was their dinner today...so for those wondering here it goes:
we simply ate tacos tonight with:
Beef,
Sausage, (veryyy good)
Pig, (so good)
Cow nose,
Cow cheek,
Cow tongue,
Cow back of tongue,
and of course cow brains.

the way to the shop was amazingly fun..another Barunata..however this will be supplied on demand...dont feel like writing it..I'm tired..zzz..zz

Monday, September 7, 2009

Day 3: Places of the Gods

Another virtually sleepless night led to an another early bird start for us today...went out at around 6 in the morning to and walked around the neighbour hood..was still dark and quite an uneasy feeling was sinking into me..however we could see police men at every corner and cars flashing the lights in almost every street...and the fact that im sharing today's experience is proof that we made it to dawn..this was when we started our walk back to the hostel, when we heard TRUMPETS and we saw the military police walking in formation at the beat of drums and trumpets..a nice experience..

..now it was time for one of the most awaited tour for us..plan for the day: visit Theotuacan pyramids..however along the way there we made a couple of stops. The first stop is the 'Plaza de tres culturas', thats Place of three cultures for us. This is known like this because in one place you could see The ancient ruins of the aztecs, to the right side of it was the Spanish church built by the Spanish conquerer Hernan Cortes, and on the left you could see the 'modern' i.e. concrete flats...the ruines and the church of course are the attraction of the place..however unfortunately enough Cortes made the aztecs build the new chruch by using the rock from the old ruins..so not much of the ruins still remains (and the new buildings cover many other remains)..

..now it was off the the Lady of Guadalupe shrine...this is the second most visited catholic pilgrimage place after the vatican and believe me - the sight just give goose bumps...we actually went into both the new and the old church and could admire live the actual Poncho on which the miraculus iprint of the madonna has appeared...a mystical thing especially when you see it from a couple of meters away..



and now off to the highlight of the day (without taking anything from the others) however on our way to the pyramids. As we were cruising the highway..off in the distance against the mountians we had already spotted a majistc pyramid..the anticipation was building...as we were making our way towards our destination we however made another stop.

Here we were welcomed by a family of locals who explaind to us some traditions and home about their home made drink: the Mezchal (Tequilla)..Ohh yeahhh baby - we had this in a variety of flavours: with honey, with almond and of course..the reall taquilla - with lime and salt..and believe me when i say this but im sorry - the tequilla we drink back home TASTES LIKE SHIT compared to this...especially if you consider that we were drinking this at around 12:00 local time...too good...however in our minds we were all still thinking about the pyramids which were sitting in our background. After some local food tasting and some folk singing and dancing off we went to the so much awaited pyramids..

..our guide started us out from the back entrance walking from the small pyramids, where while she was explaining we couldnt resist the temptation of taking a 'few' pics of the bigger pyramids: the one of the Moon, and the biggest one the pyramid of the Sun..which upon arrival at its feet you realise 'Holy crap, that is high' but yet again we have come all this way to see this...a few steps are nothing...and UPPPP we went...BREATHLESS both from the stairs and mostly from the view..more and more pictures and silence..one of the few moments I ever saw my friend silent..we spent a couple of more minutes here...and we set off to the next area and the other pyramid which even dispate it was closing time we climbed it to the permitted area..but this wasnt enough for steve who decided that the signs saying 'No entry' were just there for a little colourful decoration..and up he went while i was taking his picture..oh yeah..we got proof to get his ass in jail...



...In all this excitment and glamour i have failed to mention the new friends which we made today. Apart from the danish couple which we had met yday today we met another couple this time from london..what a sweet couple and nice people and also we met two young ladies also from england but native from India (but born in Kenya) [insomma pastardjati wahda A1]. Im not sure if i have already mentioned the russian fellow which we met yday but telling you his stories would be a whole new different blog...but we all were trying to avoid for most of the trip..lets say that his character is too special for our(everyones) likings.

...I think that is it for today from the Centre of America..managed to kill some time while writing this and sipping on the Margarits..hope that tiredness wins over the mind clock and we manage to grap some sleep tonight as tomorrow we are off to Oaxaca and we could use every little energy we can get...

Hasta la mañana.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Day 2: Mexico City Sinking (In)

OH yes, day 2 in Mexico..or really its the first day in Mexico City..

..Early birds we were today when after a virtually sleepless night (im blaming the jetlag) I got out of bed at around 720 local time, realizing that the alarm (which i had entrusted to steve to set) didnt go off i woke him up too.The plan for the early morning was to visit the Zocalo and take some pics of this during the day..apart from the countless Polizia Federal, which were getting ready for the celebrations day, we were the only two persons walking around in the morning along with a couple of steet vendors who were setting up around the church.

After the walk we went off to breakfast which I LOVED.On the menu: pancakes (with loads of honey) some taco-toast and what looked like sundried tomatoes..everything really good untill tasting the tomatoes which were HOTTT.

After the spicy breakfast our plan for the day was to visit Xochimilco just outside the city...a guide picked us up from the hostel with a typical american chevy van which was full with other young vistiors. The drive to the place felt quite like home, where in many ways the driving is similar to our style i.e. people parking in the middle of the road, changing lanes and of course...reversing in what is a main street..in the mean time the guide was explaining to us how Mexico City was an island before spanish came and decided to dry up the cancals..Xochimilco is a rehabilitation project to re-create a little canal...in the mean time we were making friends with the (nice) austrlian ladies in front of us and a danish couple who share our same hostel. Once there the next was to ride the 'boat house' which is simply a one-man powered floating piece of wood with some chairs for tourists...to our great comfort the guide explains that before all this was mud and now 'water recycled from the city' is being pumped for the cancal...oh wow...i wish i could swim in here...NOT - apart from this little detail, this was SO RELAXING, seriously an enjoyable ride where u can in absolute silence admire the flora and fauna and the 'crane' birds flying around..only a massage while on the canal would have beaten such a simple but yet an experience.

After this it was off to a Coyacan, where Frida Kahlo ('who the f*** is Frida Kahlo' i heard that !) use to live...the best experience of this however was not the museum of this artist but the visit to the market next to it..this was such an 'insider' experience. Many, many shops crammed into what looked as such a small space. We came to the market for eating some 'quesadillas' - in simple terms to us europeans pancakes made of sweet corn..the filling of these is totally up to ones likings. One stop before arriving to the vendor we bought some fruit squash (of black colour) which to our amazement was AWESOMELY GOOOD followed by some deep fried pig skin..yes thats right..PIG SKIN haha...it looked like the chinese crackers however the taste was different and not of my likings...dont be disgusted its MEXICO :) This was one of the preambles of coming here: being open minded and up for new experience..anyway back to the quesadillas...i guess you are wondering right now - what did we taste...oh well here it goes (warning: people with a delicate stomach should avoid reading the following list)
Chicken,
Cabbage,
Corn Fungus,
Boiled Pig Skin,
and last but not least Cow Brain...and yes I am not joking..

After this it was back way home, where on the way we found an open market place and we decided to stop there (not having a clue which way back to our hostel)...but then yes we managed. The market was full of nice stuff, many amazing skill full people working out live..wonderful..then it started to rain..ohh yes just a little drip which on our way was intensifying and thunder was being heard..quite close to us actually...thank god we made it safely to the hostel and BUM...havens broke loose and the little drip turned into a thunderstorm..while writing this on the (open roof) of the hostel (covered only by a plastic tent) the lightning was striking the buildings in front of us and adjecent to us..this was when we decided that it was best to retire to our rooms and call it a day..this was at approximately 20:30 local time..but tireness won over us...off to sleep :)

Saturday, September 5, 2009

Day 1: Its all about getting there - Mexico City

Hola a todos,

Como estas...Its been a long journey here, and for me...a small guy from a small island even a few hours by car is a long trip..let alone a 23hr transition time..

..me and my friend, Stephen, set out on this trip at around 5 in the morning..at least that was the planned meeting time...for once I was late..and this trip already started with a surprise: steve preceding me at the airport.

We set out for our first flight to london..3hrs approx and when we got there...Mr. Ferfex (maltese thing) was taking me to the wrong direction...thank god i think before i act :p...then to Heathrow terminal 5 where the most modern airport in the world shows you that the new airports are now not travel-centric but business centric..after all the checks (quite fast) Its sincerely a shopping mall with planes attached to it...still a nice experience.

...next are the 12hours of flight from london to mexico city..thank god we had good seats and my neighbour was a young french (i got something for french) lady visting mexico for 4months...met a new friend and had someone to chat between a movie and the other with since mr. Company (steve has so many nicknames) slept all the way to london and half way to mexico...oh well I was sleeping many times too..

Once landed at the airport, the first thing which impressed me is the CALMNESS of people, how laid back and relaxed they are work. The imigration officer (those who stamp your passport) was taking all his time to view all my pages of the passport until he deemed that tha last page was nice enough for the mexican stamp (this was awarded after viewing our passport and ´another Id from ¿Malta? please'...

..the taxi ride to the hostel was smooth and it took maybe a maximum of 10minutes..the hotel is situated exactly next to the Zocalo' the centre (or something like that..) where today is all adorned with lights and some traditional folklore people dancing to celebrate the National Independance..a nice thing to experience..i must say..steve has just informed that there are about 82,000 lights (ejja gonzi!)

..the place in general feels safe, many police around but still some people imo look fishy..so im still aware of the surroundings all the time...first street-eat was from this street vendor selling boiled sweetcorn (dont know the local name)..who while preparing it with mayo and chilli is all the time moving around with his cart (away from the police..'cute')

My body's system time would be 0600 in the morning right now..however here its still 2300 so by my standards its too early to go to sleep..dont know about any good clubs or party place around..didnt do any reasearch about that..partying will be saved for Cancun probably..

..time to upload some pics